Wednesday, September 24, 2025

Why Water Pipes Burst in Bergen County, NJ Homes (and How to Prevent Them)

Most winters in Bergen County expose your plumbing to stress, so you should know why do pipes burst and the common causes of burst pipes — from freezing and pressure build-up to corrosion and poor insulation — to protect your home. This guide explains causes of burst pipes and practical steps you can take to prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ, including insulating vulnerable lines, maintaining heat, and shutting off exterior valves to reduce risk of frozen pipes Bergen County and costly water damage.

Key Takeaways:

  • Cold weather is the top answer to why do pipes burst in Bergen County: frozen pipes Bergen County expand as ice forms, and common causes of burst pipes include freezing, corrosion, high water pressure, and ground movement.
  • To prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ, insulate vulnerable pipes, install heat tape, seal gaps around exterior walls, open cabinet doors and let a trickle of water run during deep freezes, and drain outdoor hoses and shut off exterior valves.
  • Be prepared to limit damage: know your main shutoff, schedule regular inspections to catch corrosion or leaks (common causes of burst pipes), and keep a trusted plumber’s number to quickly respond and help prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ.

Common Causes of Water Pipe Bursts

You face several common causes of water pipe bursts in Bergen County: rapid temperature fluctuations that freeze and expand water, corrosion and scale in aging galvanized or older copper lines, high water pressure from failed regulators, and physical damage from tree roots or renovations. Knowing why do pipes burst lets you target inspections—attics, crawlspaces and exterior walls see the most failures during winter’s frozen pipes Bergen County calls, so prioritize those areas to prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ.

Related: What to Do if a Pipe Bursts in Your Mahwah, NJ Home

Temperature Fluctuations

When outdoor temperatures plunge, exposed or poorly insulated pipes can freeze in 1–3 hours at temps below 20°F, ice expansion raises internal pressure and causes splits at joints and bends; repeated freeze–thaw cycles weaken metal and solder. You’ll often find failures in attics, basements and exterior walls after rapid swings, so keep warm air moving, insulate lines, and leave a slow drip during cold snaps to prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ.

Temperature Effects

Condition Impact on your pipes
Rapid drops to <20°F Exposed lines can freeze within 1–3 hours; ice buildup causes splits
Freeze–thaw cycles Repeated expansion fatigues fittings and solder joints
Vulnerable locations Attics, crawlspaces, exterior walls, unheated garages and hose bibs

Aging Infrastructure

Homes with original galvanized, cast iron, or older copper pipes—often 40–70 years old—experience internal corrosion and scale that narrows bore and creates weak spots; you may notice brown water, reduced flow, or pinhole leaks before a full burst. Understanding causes of burst pipes helps you weigh spot repairs versus full repiping to reduce repeated emergency fixes and to prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ.

Have a plumber verify pipe material and age with a camera inspection or pressure test so you know why do pipes burst in your system. Upgrading to PEX or modern copper often eliminates recurring corrosion issues; typical repipe ranges from about $4,000–$12,000 depending on home size, but it can cut future frozen pipes Bergen County incidents and insurance claims linked to aged infrastructure.

plumbing emergency from a burst pipe in a new jersey residential home

Impact of Extreme Weather

Severe temperature swings and intense storms in Bergen County increase stress on plumbing, explaining why do pipes burst more often after winter freezes or summer storms. Cold snaps that dip below 20°F and late-winter thaw cycles create pressure changes inside lines, while heavier rainfall raises groundwater and sewer loads. These weather-driven forces are common causes of burst pipes and mean you should plan upgrades and inspections to prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ.

Freezing Conditions

Water expands about 9% when it freezes, so uninsulated exterior lines, slab penetrations, and pipes in crawlspaces are prime candidates for frozen pipes Bergen County. Pipes 1/2″ to 1″ are most vulnerable; you’ll see splits near fittings and elbows first. Keep insulation rated for your local climate, maintain indoor temps above 55°F in unheated zones, and let faucets drip during extended cold to reduce the chance your pipes turn into a cause of burst pipes.

Heavy Rain and Flooding

Flash floods and prolonged heavy rain saturate soil and raise hydrostatic pressure on foundations, forcing water into basements and stressing service lines—one clear cause of burst pipes after storms. Older sewer systems can back up, creating pressure differentials that rupture joints or collapse clay and cast-iron sections, which helps explain why do pipes burst during major runoff events in Bergen County.

Mitigation steps you can take include installing a sump pump rated at least 2,400–3,000 GPH with battery backup, adding a backflow preventer on the sewer line, and regrading soil away from foundations. Regular camera inspections identify weak sewer joints before they fail, and these measures collectively help prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ during heavy rain and flooding.

Signs of Potential Pipe Failure

Look for water stains, unexplained damp patches, mold growth, frost on exposed piping, bulging drywall, or sudden drops in water flow — each can signal corrosion, hidden leaks, or freezing. You should treat persistent wet spots or cyclical issues during subfreezing nights as early warning signs of why do pipes burst in Bergen County and to prioritize fixes that prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ.

Pro Tip: RJP Plumbing & Heating, based in Ramsey, NJ, is a trusted, fully licensed and insured plumbing and heating company serving Northern New Jersey and Rockland County NY. We offer a wide range of residential and commercial plumbing services such as, drain cleaning, water heater installations, boiler replacements, leak detection, plumbing fixture installation and repair, toilet repair and installation, and more! 

Low Water Pressure

Pressure below about 30–40 psi or sudden loss when multiple fixtures run can indicate a partial blockage from mineral buildup, a hidden leak, or a constricted line from corrosion—common causes of burst pipes in older Bergen County homes with galvanized supply lines. You can check your main shutoff and use a pressure gauge at an exterior spigot; sustained low readings help plumbers pinpoint problems and take steps to prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ.

Unusual Sounds from Pipes

Banging, whistling, rattling or hissing often points to water hammer, air in lines, loose straps, or small leaks; each raises stress on joints and increases the risk of failure. Asking why do pipes burst often leads back to pressure spikes or mineral-restricted flow. You should note timing—noise that starts during furnace cycles or hard freezes increases suspicion of frozen pipes Bergen County.

Diagnose by isolating fixtures: shut valves to see where noise stops, attach a simple pressure gauge (household gauges read 0–100 psi) to detect drops or spikes, and listen during appliance cycles. Typical household pressure runs 40–80 psi; repeated spikes or drops beyond that range suggest the causes of burst pipes and may call for water hammer arrestors ($50–$200), pipe replacement, or added insulation to prevent frozen pipes Bergen County.

Preventive Measures for Homeowners

Use a layered approach to prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ: insulate vulnerable runs, set thermostats no lower than 55°F during cold snaps, and shut off outdoor faucets before freeze periods. You should also know why do pipes burst in older homes—age, corrosion, and sudden temperature drops are common causes of burst pipes—so schedule professional checks and keep a list of emergency shut-off locations to limit damage when frozen pipes Bergen County occur.

Insulating Pipes

Cover exposed pipes with foam sleeves or fiberglass wrap and apply thermostatically controlled heat tape to short, exposed sections in attics or crawlspaces. In Bergen County winters, temperatures can dip below 15°F, so insulating both hot and cold lines in exterior walls, basements, and garage areas cuts freeze risk and addresses a leading cause of burst pipes by reducing ice formation inside pipes.

Regular Maintenance Checks

Perform seasonal inspections for corrosion, loose fittings, and drips; test water pressure with a gauge—keep it under 60 psi to reduce stress—and exercise shut-off valves so they operate in an emergency. You’ll learn why do pipes burst by noting slow leaks or mineral buildup, common causes of burst pipes that often appear well before a failure.

Go deeper by checking water meter readings overnight for phantom flow, inspecting exposed lines after storms, and replacing galvanized or lead service lines older than 50 years. Schedule a licensed plumber every 18–24 months for camera inspections and pressure tests to proactively prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ and limit incidents of frozen pipes Bergen County during multi-day cold snaps.

water pipe burst in a basement of a Bergen County home

Professional Inspection and Repair

Schedule a professional inspection at least once a year to pinpoint why do pipes burst in your home: thermal imaging reveals cold pockets, pressure tests (around 60 psi) expose weak joints, and visual checks find corrosion or freeze damage. Technicians trace causes of burst pipes like ice expansion, shifting soil, and aged copper, then recommend repairs to prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ — especially in areas prone to frozen pipes Bergen County where repeated freeze-thaw cycles accelerate failure.

When to Call a Plumber

Call a plumber immediately if you detect steady meter movement with all fixtures off, sudden drops in water pressure (over 40–50%), bulging or frost on exposed piping, muddy water, or active leaks; these are common signs explaining why do pipes burst and signal urgent causes of burst pipes. If outdoor temps plunge and you suspect frozen pipes Bergen County, shut off the main and call emergency service to limit damage and start professional thawing.

Related: When Should You Call an Emergency Plumber In Bergen County NJ?

Benefits of Professional Services

Hiring a licensed plumber gives you targeted fixes rather than temporary patches: leak detection locates hidden breaks, trenchless repair avoids major demolition, and repiping with PEX or properly sleeved copper reduces future freeze-related failures. Professionals also document repairs for insurance, advise on insulation and heat-trace options to prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ, and provide warranties that lower long‑term costs from repeated causes of burst pipes.

More detailed benefits include use of acoustic sensors and thermal cameras to find microleaks before they fail, pressure- and hydro-testing to verify repairs, and installation of smart shutoff valves that cut water within seconds of a catastrophic break. Local Bergen County contractors understand building codes and can pull permits, while many offer 24/7 emergency response—often arriving within 1–3 hours—to handle frozen pipes Bergen County and reduce loss from bursts.

Summary of Preventive Strategies

Actionable Checklist

Insulate exposed pipes in attics, crawlspaces and garages with 1/2–1-inch foam and apply thermostatic heat tape to runs under 3 feet from exterior walls; these steps address why do pipes burst and common causes of burst pipes that start with cold transfer. Keep your thermostat at 55°F+ when away, open cabinet doors, let a slow trickle run when temps drop below 20°F, and shut and drain exterior valves to prevent frozen pipes Bergen County. Proactive maintenance—annual plumbing inspection and sealing drafts—helps prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ.

To wrap up

On the whole you can reduce costly damage by understanding why do pipes burst in Bergen County: aging materials, freezing temperatures, pressure spikes and corrosion are common causes of burst pipes; frozen pipes Bergen County winters are especially risky. To prevent burst pipes Bergen County NJ, you should insulate vulnerable lines, maintain steady heat, shut off and drain exterior spigots, and schedule professional inspections to repair weak or leaky sections before they fail.

Our team at RJP Plumbing & Heating is known for quality workmanship, competitive pricing, and reliable emergency service. Whether it’s a simple repair, full system installation,or an emergency plumbing issue, RJP Plumbing & Heating is committed to getting the job done right the first time. Check out our 5 star Google reviews and contact us today.

 

The post Why Water Pipes Burst in Bergen County, NJ Homes (and How to Prevent Them) appeared first on RJP Plumbing & Heating.



source https://rjpplumbingandheating.com/why-pipes-burst-in-bergen-county-homes/

Monday, September 22, 2025

Bergen County Homeowner’s Guide: Preventing and Thawing Frozen Pipes

Bergen winters demand that you prepare your home to prevent and safely thaw frozen pipes; inspect insulation, seal drafts, maintain steady heat, and drain exterior lines. If a pipe freezes, locate it, open faucets, apply gentle heat with a hair dryer or heat tape, and shut off water before major leaks. Follow these steps to protect your plumbing and minimize damage quickly.

Key Takeaways:

  • Prevent freezing: insulate exposed pipes, seal drafts, disconnect outdoor hoses, open cabinets and keep home temperature steady; allow a slow faucet drip during extreme cold.
  • Safe thawing: apply gentle, direct heat (hair dryer, heat lamp, electric heating pad) toward the faucet and avoid open flames; if a pipe bursts, shut off the main water valve and drain the system.
  • Be prepared: locate the main shutoff and pipe access points, keep a plumber’s contact handy, and install insulation or heat tape on vulnerable pipes before the cold sets in.

DIY thawing frozen pipes in a residential home in Bergen County NJ

The Consequences of Frozen Pipes: Why Every Homeowner Should Care

Importance of Prevention: Understanding the Risks

Frozen pipes can crack as water expands about 9% when it turns to ice, leaving you with hidden leaks, warped flooring, and mold colonies that begin forming within 24–48 hours. In Bergen County, nights below 20°F combined with uninsulated exterior walls or crawlspaces create the highest risk, and shutoff delays or contractor backlogs during cold snaps amplify damage. You face not just inconvenience but potential loss of irreplaceable items and extended displacement while repairs and drying are completed.

Pro Tip: RJP Plumbing & Heating, based in Ramsey, NJ, is a trusted, fully licensed and insured plumbing and heating company serving Northern New Jersey and Rockland County NY. We offer a wide range of residential and commercial plumbing services such as, drain cleaning, water heater installations, boiler replacements, leak detection, plumbing fixture installation and repair, toilet repair and installation, and more! 

Financial Impact: Repair Costs and Property Damage

Emergency plumbing calls typically run $150–$500, while pipe repairs can range from $200 to $1,500 for straightforward fixes; water mitigation and restoration commonly fall between $2,000 and $20,000 depending on scope. Policy deductibles of $500–$2,000 apply on many homeowner plans, and insurers may deny claims if preventive measures like insulation or shutoffs were neglected, leaving you responsible for substantial out‑of‑pocket expenses.

A realistic scenario: a burst pipe in a finished basement can dump hundreds to thousands of gallons in a day, forcing removal of drywall, insulation, flooring, and contents. Plumber labor and parts might cost $500–$2,000, drywall and framing repairs $1,000–$8,000, flooring replacement $500–$10,000, and mold remediation $500–$6,000; combined losses frequently push total bills into the $10,000–$30,000 range. You should document damage immediately for claims and be aware that timely prevention often determines whether insurance covers the full scope of repairs.

Major Contributors to Pipe Freezing

Common Environmental Factors

Cold snaps, persistent winds, and shaded pipe runs raise your freezing risk in Bergen County; winters can dip below 10°F and wind chill accelerates heat loss. Typical trouble spots include:

  • Exterior walls and unheated crawlspaces
  • Attics, basements, and garage-adjacent lines
  • Long runs of copper or PVC along poorly insulated façades

Recognizing these specific conditions helps you target insulation and sealing where it matters most.

Insufficient Insulation and Other Human Factors

Exposed or missing pipe insulation, gaps around sill plates, and aggressive thermostat setbacks increase freeze likelihood—older homes (pre-1980) are especially vulnerable. Common human errors include:

  • Skipping insulation on short runs under sinks
  • Keeping cabinet doors closed over plumbing in cold rooms
  • Forgetting to disconnect outdoor hoses or shut exterior valves

After you winterize, routinely inspect these spots and maintain a minimal heat or slight water flow during deep freezes.

Targeted fixes deliver measurable results: fit foam or fiberglass insulation to pipe diameter, install thermostatic heat tape rated for subzero use, and seal gaps larger than 1/4″ where pipes penetrate walls. Practical steps include:

  • Wrapping both hot and cold lines in unheated spaces
  • Applying heat tape to long exterior runs per manufacturer guidelines
  • Caulking or spray-foaming gaps at sill plates and rim joists

After you complete these measures, test vulnerable lines during the next freeze by opening cabinets and checking for warmth and steady flow.

frozen pipe repair working being done in a Ramsey NJ home by RJP Plumbing & Heating

Proactive Measures: How to Guard Against Frozen Pipes

Insulate Exposed Pipes

Line exposed pipes in basements, attics, crawl spaces and garages with foam sleeves or fiberglass wrap; use 1/2″–1″ pre-slit foam tubing for 1/2″–3/4″ pipes and secure elbows with fiberglass tape. Add thermostatic heat tape on runs prone to freezing—choose tape that activates around 40°F—and cover joints and valves where heat loss concentrates.

Maintain Consistent Heating

Keep your thermostat at a steady 55°F or higher during severe cold spells and avoid large nighttime setbacks; sustained indoor temps limit freeze risk in walls and concealed runs even when outside falls below 20°F. Program thermostats to maintain that baseline when you’re away.

Open interior doors and allow warm air to circulate to exterior-facing walls and under-sink cabinets; when practical, leave cabinet doors open to expose pipes to house heat. If you have zoned heating, raise the zone covering plumbing runs and consider a small space heater (with tip-over and thermostat cutoffs) for unheated utility rooms.

Let Faucets Drip During Cold Spells

Run a slow drip—about one drip per second—on faucets served by exposed lines, prioritizing the taps farthest from the main shutoff to keep water moving through long runs and reduce pressure buildup that causes bursts. Target both hot and cold lines on severe nights.

Shut off and drain outdoor spigots first, then open interior taps during multi-day freezes; a pencil-thin stream uses far less water than a burst cleanup and prevents pipe expansion that leads to splits. Monitor your water bill if drips are extended, and switch to targeted heat tape where prolonged dripping isn’t practical.

Seal Cracks and Openings

Seal gaps around sill plates, foundation penetrations, electrical conduits and around service pipes with silicone caulk or low-expansion spray foam; fill holes larger than 1/4″ and use weatherstripping on doors. Pay attention to areas where cold air drafts directly contact plumbing runs.

Perform a fall inspection: use a flashlight to find daylight through gaps, then measure openings and apply the right product—caulk for hairline cracks, spray foam for 1/4″–2″ gaps, and rigid foam board for larger voids. Professional air-sealing typically costs $300–$1,000 but often prevents repeated freeze repairs.

Keep Garage Doors Closed

Close attached garage doors during cold snaps to prevent frigid air from reaching pipes in walls shared with living spaces; uninsulated garages can track outside temps within a few degrees, exposing adjacent water lines to freeze conditions.

Install an insulated garage door or add thresholds and seals to reduce air infiltration; if plumbing runs through the garage wall, insulate that wall with R-13–R-19 batt insulation or add a small thermostatically controlled heater in the garage to keep temps above freezing during multi-day cold events.

Related: What Is the Most Common Plumbing Repair?

Responding to the Freeze: A Practical Guide to Thawing Pipes

Shut off affected fixtures and open cabinet doors to expose pipes; if you detect bulging pipe walls or active leakage, shut the main and call a plumber. Use controlled heat sources, work methodically from the faucet back toward the frozen spot, and limit DIY thawing to sections you can access safely—expect most small sections to thaw in 15–60 minutes depending on length and ambient temperature.

Identify the Frozen Section

Trace the line from the nonfunctional fixture toward the exterior wall or unheated space, feeling for frigid pipe sections or visible frost; check hose bibs, meter readings, and the distance from the faucet—frozen zones commonly occur within 2–6 feet of exterior walls or in crawlspaces under vents.

Apply Heat Using a Hair Dryer or Heat Tape

Use a hair dryer on medium, moving continuously along the pipe at roughly 3–6 inches distance, or apply rated heat tape per manufacturer instructions; avoid open flames, extension cords that overheat, and saturated insulation while heating.

Choose self-regulating heat tape for indoor pipes—it adjusts wattage and reduces burn risk—while constant-wattage tape needs a thermostat and careful installation. Clean and dry the pipe first, wrap heat tape along the run (do not overlap), secure with electrical tape every 6–12 inches, plug into a GFCI outlet, and monitor: short runs (under 10 ft) often thaw within 15–30 minutes, longer runs proportionally longer.

Use Towels Soaked in Hot Water

Soak towels in hot tap water (about 120°F), wrap them around the frozen section and re-soak every 5–10 minutes to maintain heat, layering with dry towels or insulation to trap warmth and accelerate melting without direct electrical heat.

Apply a sequence: wrap with hot wet towels for 10–15 minutes, replace with fresh hot towels as they cool, and add a thin foam sleeve or bubble wrap over the wet layer to retain heat; avoid pouring boiling water directly on pipes—glass or PVC can crack—and combine this with a nearby space heater for sub-basement runs to shave thaw time.

Allow Water to Run Gradually

Open the affected faucet to a slow steady stream or drip so melting ice can flow out and pressure is relieved; running water at even a small flow helps ice melt faster because movement carries heat into the frozen section.

Start with the faucet farthest from the main to draw water through the line, keep it open during thawing, and expect partial improvement within 10–30 minutes for short freezes. If flow doesn’t improve after 30–60 minutes, stop and consult a professional—continuous high flow isn’t required; a consistent trickle is more effective at preventing bursts while thawing.

Monitor for Leaks After Thawing

Inspect joints, fittings, ceilings, and under sinks immediately after thawing; check the water meter with all fixtures off for any movement over 30–60 minutes to detect hidden leaks that can start once ice melts and pressure redistributes.

Run each faucet at full flow briefly and watch for pressure drops or steady puddles; use a flashlight to inspect seams and use a moisture meter or tissue to find small pinhole leaks. If the meter registers continuous flow with no usage or you see pressure loss exceeding noticeable levels, shut the main and call a licensed plumber to avoid flooding or structural damage.

Do’s and Don’ts: Best Practices for Preventing Pipe Issues

✅ Regularly Check the Insulation

Inspect pipe insulation at least once each fall and after prolonged cold snaps; check attics, crawlspaces, garages and exterior walls for gaps or crushed foam. Replace damaged foam sleeves (1/2″–1″ common) and add 2–3 inches of fiberglass or closed-cell foam around exposed lines. Track dates and materials so you can spot recurring trouble spots and prioritize upgrades where pipes run along unheated exterior walls.

❌ Avoid Using Open Flames for Thawing

Never use torches, candles, propane or other open flames to thaw frozen pipes; extreme localized heat can warp copper, melt plastic joints, ignite insulation and create a fire or explosion hazard near gas lines. Use safer methods like a hair dryer, heat gun on low, space heater, or warm towels and keep a faucet open to relieve pressure as ice melts.

Propane torches exceed 1,000°F and can rapidly overheat fittings, causing metal fatigue and pinhole leaks that appear later. Work methodically from the faucet back toward the frozen section, apply steady, moderate heat and monitor joints for signs of distress. If you detect the smell of gas, evacuate, call your gas utility and avoid any heat sources until professionals declare the area safe.

✅ Employ Professional Help When Needed

If thawing by safe, non-flame methods doesn’t restore flow within 30–60 minutes, if you find bulging or leaking pipe, or if gas is involved, call a licensed plumber. Typical emergency thawing and minor repairs range $100–$400, with after-hours or complex jobs up to $800. Verify license, insurance and a written estimate before work begins to avoid surprise charges.

Professionals use controlled tools like electric heating blankets, hot water circulation and hydronic thawers that limit thermal shock and pressure surges. Ask about pressure testing after thawing, permanent insulation upgrades, and warranties on repairs; a documented service report helps with insurance claims if a hidden burst led to water damage.

Related: When Should You Call an Emergency Plumber In Bergen County NJ?

Essential FAQs About Frozen Pipes

You’ll find the shortest route to fixes and prevention in quick answers: recognition, safe DIY thawing, and targeted steps to stop repeats. Expect concrete tips like using a hair dryer, opening cabinets, setting thermostats no lower than 55°F when away, and insulating vulnerable runs in attics, crawlspaces, garages, and exterior walls where most Bergen County freezes start.

What are the signs of frozen pipes?

No water or very low flow at a single fixture often signals a localized freeze; visible frost on exposed piping, unusually cold exterior walls, or bulging pipe sections indicate ice blockage and swelling. You may also see discolored or sputtering water once thawing begins. Freezes commonly occur in garage lines, crawlspaces, and exterior-wall cabinets.

Can I thaw them myself?

You can safely attempt thawing if the pipe is accessible and intact: shut off the water supply to the affected line, open the faucet to relieve pressure, apply gentle heat with a hair dryer, heat lamp, or warm towels, and avoid open flames. Stop and call a licensed plumber if you detect cracks, leaks, or you can’t restore flow within 30–60 minutes.

Start by turning on the cold-water tap served by the frozen pipe so melting ice can flow out; then warm the pipe section closest to the faucet working back toward the frozen area. Use a hair dryer or portable space heater at a safe distance, wear insulated gloves, and avoid electrical hazards in wet areas. If the pipe has bulges, heavy corrosion, or you discover a leak, shut off the main and contact a professional immediately.

How can I prevent future occurrences?

Insulate exposed pipes with foam sleeves, install thermostatically controlled heat tape on vulnerable runs, seal air leaks where cold drafts enter, and keep your thermostat at or above 55°F when away for extended periods. During prolonged cold snaps, let faucets drip a slow, steady stream—about the width of a pencil—to keep water moving and reduce freeze risk.

Add 1/2″–1″ foam insulation on pipes in unheated spaces and use UL-listed heat tape installed per manufacturer instructions for areas that routinely hit sub-20°F overnight. Close exterior crawlspace vents, open vanity doors to let warm air circulate, and consider relocating critical lines away from exterior walls during renovations; these measures cut freeze incidents dramatically in northern New Jersey winters.

Knowing When to Call a Professional for Frozen Pipes

Signs that go beyond a frozen faucet—no water at multiple fixtures for more than two hours, visible bulging or cracking in exposed pipe, or water pooling after you thaw—mean you should call a professional. A licensed plumber can assess hidden damage, locate inaccessible freezes, and prevent a small ice blockage from becoming a burst. In Bergen winters with prolonged sub‑10°F stretches, early expert intervention reduces repair scope and insurance complications.

Signs That DIY Won’t Cut It

If your DIY thawing fails after 30 minutes of steady heat or you find water leaking from joints, stop. Multiple affected fixtures, discolored or gritty water, loud creaks inside walls, or frost showing on exterior walls indicate a problem beyond a hairpin thaw. Gas appliances nearby, electrical hazards, or visible bulges are immediate reasons to call an emergency plumber.

Criteria for Needing Expert Assistance

Any active leak, visible rupture, or freeze located inside a wall, foundation, or under a slab requires professional help. Also contact an expert when more than two fixtures are affected, the main shutoff won’t isolate the section, or you’ve had repeated freezes in the same run—those signal systemic insulation or routing issues best fixed by a licensed technician.

Professionals use tools you likely don’t have: infrared cameras to spot cold spots, pipe locators to trace runs, and controlled hot‑water coils or electric tracing to thaw safely. Typical emergency thaw and minor repairs in Bergen often range $200–$600; full replacements can run $800–$2,500 depending on access and pipe length. You’ll also receive documentation for insurers and specific recommendations for insulation, heat tracing, or rerouting to prevent repeats.

Summing up

Taking this into account, you should insulate your vulnerable pipes, maintain steady heat, let faucets drip during extreme cold, locate shutoffs, and thaw frozen sections safely with a hair dryer or heat gun while monitoring for leaks; prior planning, routine inspections, and contacting a licensed plumber promptly will minimize damage and restore service quickly.

Our team at RJP Plumbing & Heating is known for quality workmanship, competitive pricing, and reliable emergency service. Whether it’s a simple repair, full system installation,or an emergency plumbing issue, RJP Plumbing & Heating is committed to getting the job done right the first time. Check out our 5 star Google reviews and contact us today.

 

The post Bergen County Homeowner’s Guide: Preventing and Thawing Frozen Pipes appeared first on RJP Plumbing & Heating.



source https://rjpplumbingandheating.com/bergen-county-guide-prevent-frozen-pipes/

Monday, September 15, 2025

How Does Trenchless Sewer Repair Work?

Many homeowners find trenchless sewer repair a faster, less disruptive option when your sewer line fails. Trained technicians first perform a camera inspection to locate damage, then choose between pipe bursting—where a new pipe is pulled through the old one—or cured-in-place lining, which coats and seals the interior. Both methods minimize digging, restore flow, and typically finish faster than open excavation, giving you reliable, long-lasting results.

Key Takeaways:

  • Inspection: A camera and locating tools let qualified technicians find the problem, assess damage, and decide the best trenchless option.
  • Pipe bursting: A new pipe is pulled through the old one while a bursting head fractures the old pipe into pieces, replacing the line with minimal digging (only two small access pits).
  • Lining: For cracks or leaks, a resin-coated liner is inserted, expanded, and cured inside the existing pipe to form a continuous new pipe—a fast, long-lasting solution often offered with contractor warranties.

trenchless sewer repair in Bergen County NJ

The Mechanics of Trenchless Technology

You watch trenchless repair operate as a coordinated set of inspection, rehabilitation, and replacement steps that restore flow without full excavation. Typical projects cut digging by 75–90%, reduce restoration time from days to hours, and use either pipe bursting to install a new HDPE pipe or cured-in-place pipe (CIPP) lining to create a seamless new interior. Many residential laterals (4–6″) are completed in a single day; larger mains may use sectional CIPP cured with steam or UV over several days.

Related: What Causes a Sewer Backup In Ramsey, NJ

How Does the Process Initiate?

A robotic CCTV inspection with a sonde pinpoints defects, depth, and material—often within inches—so you know whether lining or bursting fits best. You’ll get video, defect codes (e.g., root intrusion, offset joints), and length estimates; a typical 50–100 ft lateral inspection takes 30–90 minutes. After analysis, crews open small launch and receiving pits, set alignment, then mobilize either a bursting winch or an inversion/UV curing system depending on the chosen method.

Pro Tip: RJP Plumbing & Heating, based in Ramsey, NJ, is a trusted, fully licensed and insured plumbing and heating company serving Northern New Jersey and Rockland County NY. We offer a wide range of residential and commercial plumbing services such as, drain cleaning, water heater installations, boiler replacements, sewer repair, plumbing fixture installation and repair, toilet repair and installation, and more!

Key Equipment Used in Trenchless Repairs

You’ll commonly see a push/pull CCTV camera, locator/sonde, launch/receiving pits, hydraulic winch and bursting head for replacement, and inversion drums or trailers carrying resin-saturated liners for CIPP. Auxiliary gear includes hydraulic power units, compressors, hot-water or steam boilers, UV curing towers, and traffic control tools. Equipment choice hinges on pipe diameter—residential laterals (4–6″) use compact units; mains (12″+) require heavier hydraulics and larger curing systems.

For example, a pipe-bursting setup for a 4″ clay lateral typically uses a 6–8″ bursting head pulled by a hydraulic winch delivering tens of tons of force while simultaneously pulling in HDPE pipe; the crew completes a 30–60 ft run in under two hours. CIPP lining for the same run uses a resin-saturated felt tube inverted with air/water pressure or pulled in and cured with UV or steam, with cure times of 30–90 minutes depending on temperature and resin system.

trenchless sewer repair services in a residential home in New Jersey

Benefits Beyond the Surface

You gain faster service and far less disruption: trenchless jobs often finish in 1–3 days versus 7–14 for open-cut replacements, with cured-in-place pipe (CIPP) and pipe-bursting delivering 50+ year service lives. You avoid major landscaping, driveway or sidewalk reconstruction, cutting restoration costs by as much as 40–70% on many projects. Reduced excavation also lowers safety risks and shortens permit timelines, so you return to normal use far sooner while extending the useful life of your sewer lines.

Cost Efficiency Compared to Traditional Methods

You typically lower total project cost once you factor restoration, traffic control, and labor: trenchless lining commonly runs $80–$200 per linear foot while full replacement can be $100–$300 per foot, and avoided surface repairs often represent 40–70% of the savings. Shorter crews and quicker completion reduce indirect costs—lost business time, traffic management, and temporary services—so your upfront investment stretches further over the pipe’s multi-decade lifespan.

Cost Comparison

Trenchless (Lining/Bursting) Traditional Dig-and-Replace
Typical cost: $80–$200 / linear ft Typical cost: $100–$300 / linear ft
Project duration: 1–3 days for many residential jobs Project duration: 7–14 days or longer
Restoration needs: minimal; landscaping/pavement largely preserved Restoration needs: significant; can be 40–70% of total cost
Service life: 50+ years (CIPP/HDPE) Service life: comparable but higher long-term disruption risk

Environmental Impact and Urban Convenience

You cut material waste and emissions by minimizing excavation: trenchless methods produce far less spoil to haul and reduce heavy-equipment hours, which studies show can lower project CO2 equivalents by significant margins depending on scope. Smaller footprints mean fewer lane closures and less noise in dense areas, allowing businesses and transit to keep operating while work proceeds, so urban projects maintain functionality with minimal community impact.

You can quantify benefits on typical city runs: lining a 200–300 ft main often avoids multiple curb cuts, reduces construction waste by 70–90%, and shortens street closure from two weeks to a few days. Fewer utility relocations and shorter permit windows also cut administrative costs and speed delivery; public works departments frequently prefer trenchless techniques for downtown corridors to preserve pavement and reduce long-term maintenance budgets.

Common Misconceptions Debunked

Many assume trenchless is a short-term fix or only for small jobs, but modern methods deliver verifiable, long-lasting results. Cured-in-place pipe (CIPP) liners are rated by manufacturers for 50+ years, CCTV inspection confirms defects before and after, and pipe-bursting can replace buried clay or cast-iron mains without major surface disruption. You get documented performance and often faster project timelines compared with full excavation.

The Myths Around Trenchless Repairs

You often hear trenchless is always more expensive, can’t handle roots, or only works for small diameters. In reality, minimal restoration cuts total project cost, CIPP creates a seamless, root-resistant inner pipe, and pipe-bursting can replace and upsize typical residential lines (for example, 4″ to 6″) and many municipal mains. Pre- and post-CCTV provides objective proof of repair quality.

Real-life Examples of Successful Applications

A 50-foot residential lateral relined with CIPP in 4–8 hours restored full service and provided a liner rated for 50+ years, avoiding driveway demolition. Commercial clients have used overnight relining to prevent business closures, while municipal crews rehabilitate block-length mains in days using sectional CIPP installations to minimize traffic impacts.

One homeowner case replaced a failing 4″ clay lateral beneath a driveway via pipe bursting, upsizing to 6″ HDPE in a single day and avoiding driveway replacement; another involved a 60-foot restaurant lateral relined overnight to eliminate grease-induced backups, allowing the business to reopen the next morning while CCTV verified the restored flow capacity.

When Trenchless Is Not the Answer

You should opt for open-cut repair when the line shows full collapse, severe misalignment, or inaccessible connections that trenchless cannot restore reliably. Complex junctions with multiple laterals, concrete-encased runs, or pipes larger than roughly 18–24 inches often require excavation to reconfigure slope, replace fittings, or install new material. Permit restrictions, frequent past liner failures, and proximity to critical utilities also push the decision toward traditional methods.

Indicators That Traditional Methods Are Required

If CCTV reveals bellies deeper than 6 inches, offset joints exceeding pipe ID, or root intrusion occupying more than 70% of the bore, trenchless lining will likely fail. You’ll also need open-cut when multiple lateral reconnections are necessary, when the pipe is encased in concrete or slab, or when the diameter exceeds local contractor capabilities (commonly around 18–24 inches). Repeated post-lining backups signal underlying structural issues that trenchless won’t fix.

Analyzing Potential Risks and Limitations

Pre-job inspection can miss hidden fractures, voids, or crown collapse that undermine lining adhesion and cause early failure; if CCTV shows longitudinal cracks or severe wall loss, lining adhesion drops significantly. Pipe-bursting risks include unexpected utility strikes and ground movement in clay soils, so you must weigh the chance of collateral damage versus the benefit of avoiding landscaping disruption.

To mitigate those risks you should require full-length CCTV, geotechnical notes for expansive or loose soils, and utility scans before choosing trenchless. Ask contractors for case histories on similar pipe materials and diameters—projects over 50–100 feet often justify trenchless economically, while short runs with complex fittings favor open cut. Contract language should include warranty terms tied to pre-inspection findings and contingency plans if hidden defects appear during work.

The Future of Sewer Repair Techniques

Innovations on the Horizon

You’ll see accelerated adoption of UV-cured CIPP (curing in minutes rather than hours), AI-driven CCTV analysis that flags defects automatically, and inline robotics that perform lateral reinstatement and targeted repairs without excavation. Fiber-optic and MEMS sensors will give continuous leak and strain data, while advanced resins and nano‑reinforcements extend service life beyond traditional liners. These advances let you combine inspection, pipe bursting, and lining into faster, less disruptive workflows with clearer condition data for asset management.

Trends in Industry Adoption

Market momentum favors trenchless: industry reports project a global trenchless-technology CAGR near 7% through the late 2020s, and many utilities now include trenchless options in rehab contracts to minimize traffic impact and lifecycle cost. You’ll find pilots moving into routine specifications as owners quantify savings from reduced surface restoration and faster return-to-service.

For you managing assets, adoption is being driven by lifecycle procurement and regulatory limits on excavations. Integrating high-definition inspection, GIS, and predictive analytics lets you prioritize sections for pipe bursting or CIPP based on remaining useful life rather than reactive fixes. Training programs and OEM partnerships are shortening the learning curve, so municipalities that once reserved trenchless for niche jobs now routinely rehabilitate mains and laterals with less community disruption and clearer budget forecasting.

Summing up

Now you can see how trenchless sewer repair works: a camera inspection pinpoints damage, then either pipe bursting pulls a new pipe through the old one while fracturing the old line, or cured-in-place lining inserts a resin-saturated sleeve that cures to form a smooth replacement pipe; both methods minimize digging, reduce downtime, and extend service life, so you get a faster, less disruptive fix backed by professional diagnostics and proven techniques.

Our team at RJP Plumbing & Heating is known for quality workmanship, competitive pricing, and reliable emergency service. Whether it’s a simple repair, full system installation,or an emergency plumbing issue, RJP Plumbing & Heating is committed to getting the job done right the first time. Check out our 5 star Google reviews and contact us today.

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Monday, September 8, 2025

How Does a Water Softener System Work and What Are the Benefits?

How Does a Water Softener System Work and What Are the Benefits? If you’ve ever noticed dry skin, spotty dishes, or scale buildup on your faucets, hard water is likely to blame. A water softener system is designed to solve these problems by removing hardness minerals like calcium and magnesium from your water. From ion-exchange to salt-free options, these systems not only protect your appliances and plumbing but also improve the comfort and quality of your daily water use. In this article, we’ll explore how water softeners work, the different types available, and the key benefits they bring to your home.

Key Takeaways:

  • A water softener system uses ion-exchange resin to replace hardness ions (calcium, magnesium) with sodium or potassium; the unit periodically regenerates by flushing brine through the resin to restore softening capacity — this explains how a water softener system works at the component level.
  • The primary benefits of a water softener system include reduced scale buildup in pipes and appliances, improved soap lathering and laundry results, and extended equipment lifespan — see benefits of a water softener system for whole-house performance gains.
  • Routine water softener system maintenance involves keeping the brine tank stocked with salt, monitoring regeneration settings for water usage, and inspecting resin and valves; compare salt-based vs salt-free systems and follow manufacturer guidance for water softener system maintenance and replacement intervals.

The Chemistry of Hard Water

Calcium and magnesium ions dominate hard water chemistry, typically measured in grains per gallon (gpg) or milligrams per liter (mg/L); 1 gpg = 17.1 mg/L. These divalent cations react with carbonate, sulfate and silicate to form scale (calcium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide) that precipitates on your pipes and heating elements. A properly sized water softener system uses ion-exchange resin to swap sodium or potassium for these ions, preventing deposition and restoring soap performance in your showers, laundry, and dishwashers.

What’s in Your Water? Understanding Minerals

Your tap often contains calcium, magnesium and trace iron or manganese from limestone and groundwater aquifers; municipal and well waters vary widely. Soft is under 1 gpg, slightly hard 1–3.5 gpg, moderately hard 3.5–7 gpg, hard 7–10 gpg, very hard over 10 gpg. A water softener system targets those divalent ions, while specific filtration removes iron and manganese that stain your fixtures and clothes.

The Consequences of Hard Water on Everyday Life

Scale buildup reduces appliance lifespan and heat-transfer efficiency—your water heater can lose up to 20% efficiency with heavy scaling—raising energy bills and service calls. Hard water also forces you to use 20–50% more detergent for laundry and leaves soap scum on sinks and shower tiles, making cleaning take longer. A water softener system reduces spots, improves lathering, and can extend your appliance life and lower maintenance frequency.

Pro Tip: RJP Plumbing & Heating, based in Ramsey, NJ, is a trusted, fully licensed and insured plumbing and heating company serving Northern New Jersey and Rockland County NY. We offer a wide range of residential and commercial plumbing services such as, drain cleaning, water heater installations, boiler replacements, leak detection, plumbing fixture installation and repair, water filtration installation and repair, and more! 

Hard water increases residual soap films that dry your skin and dull your hair, contributing to complaints of irritation in areas above 7 gpg; fabrics feel stiff and towels lose absorbency faster. Scale can constrict pipe flow, raise localized pressure issues and accelerate corrosion in fixtures, so proactive installation of a whole-house water softener system often cuts your plumbing repairs and helps maintain appliance warranties.

water filtration system being tested at RJP Plumbing & Heating in Ramsey NJ

Decoding the Water Softener Components

You’ll see a few core parts that determine performance and maintenance costs: control valve, resin tank, brine tank, and bypass plumbing. The control valve schedules regeneration by gallons used or time, the resin performs ion exchange, and the brine tank stores the regenerant. Understanding these lets you size a water softener system to match household hardness measured in grains per gallon (gpg).

The Heart of the System: Resin Beads

Resin beads, typically 0.4–1.0 mm polystyrene sulfonate in the sodium or potassium form, perform ion exchange by swapping calcium and magnesium for sodium or potassium. A standard 1.0 cu ft resin volume often softens roughly 30,000–40,000 grains before regeneration; flow rate, water chemistry, and resin age (commonly 10–15 years lifespan) affect real-world performance of your water softener system.

The Role of Brine Tanks and Salt

Brine tanks hold salt—usually sodium chloride or potassium chloride—that dissolves into a concentrated regenerant solution drawn during regeneration to flush hardness ions from the resin. Salt type changes the sodium footprint and cost: potassium chloride is pricier but reduces added sodium. Check your brine level on a schedule based on family size and hardness to keep the water softener system regenerating properly.

To prevent salt bridging and mushing you should inspect the brine tank periodically, use coarse pellets to reduce compaction, and clean accumulated sludge every 6–12 months. Verify the float and brine draw assembly operate after a regeneration cycle; if you notice salt crusts or a hollowed top (bridges), break them up and top off salt. If you follow a low-sodium diet, consider potassium chloride and consult product specs for recommended refill intervals based on your softener’s grain capacity and daily water use.

water softener installation being done by RJP Plumbing & Heating in a Ramsey NJ residence.

The Transformation Process: How Water is Softened

In your water softener system, hard water flows through a mineral tank packed with ion exchange resin beads that trade calcium and magnesium for sodium or potassium ions, reducing scale and improving lather; residential softeners commonly range from 24,000 to 64,000-grain capacity, and with typical municipal hardness of 7–10 grains per gallon (1 gpg ≈ 17.1 mg/L), you’ll often see regeneration intervals of about 7–14 days depending on household use.

Ion Exchange Explained

The resin in your water softener system holds sodium or potassium ions on tiny polymer beads; as hard water passes, each calcium or magnesium ion displaces a sodium ion and binds to the resin, producing softened water; ion exchange efficiency exceeds 95% under proper flow rates, and you can size a system to match gallons-per-day and incoming hardness so the resin capacity meets your household demand.

The Cycle of Regeneration: From Hard to Soft

Regeneration restores resin by reversing the ion exchange: the system back washes to clear sediment, draws concentrated brine from the salt tank to flush calcium and magnesium off the beads, then rinses and refills the brine tank; most households experience a full cycle in 60–90 minutes and use roughly 6–12 pounds of salt per regeneration depending on softener size and settings.

You can calculate regeneration frequency: divide softener grain capacity by (hardness in gpg × daily water use in gallons); for example, a 32,000-grain water softener system facing 10 gpg hardness with 300 gallons daily use regenerates every ≈11 days; meter-based controllers trigger regeneration only when capacity is reached, saving salt and water versus time-clock units that regenerate on a fixed schedule.

The Benefits and Drawbacks of Water Softener Systems

You gain reduced scale buildup, shinier dishes, and softer skin when a water softener system removes calcium and magnesium; many homeowners report using up to 50% less soap and extending appliance life by 30–50%. Tradeoffs include upfront costs ($600–$3,000 for typical installs), ongoing salt and maintenance, and brine discharge that some municipalities regulate. Assess your water hardness, household size, and local disposal rules to weigh savings on plumbing and detergents against installation and environmental impacts.

Advantages of Softened Water for Health and Home

You’ll notice softer skin, less soap scum, and fewer clogged pipes—benefits tied to measurable reductions in scale. Industry estimates show softened water can cut soap and detergent use by up to 50% and improve water heater efficiency by roughly 10–30%, saving energy and extending life of boilers, washers, and coffee makers. A properly sized water softener system for a 3–4 person household typically pays back through lower maintenance and energy bills over 3–7 years.

Potential Downsides: Cost and Maintenance Concerns

You face both upfront and recurring costs: purchase and installation can range $600–$3,000, salt costs and electricity add ongoing expenses, and resin beds eventually need replacement (often 10–15 years). Regeneration creates brine discharge and uses water—many systems consume 20–50 gallons per regen—so you may encounter local limits or higher utility bills. People on sodium-restricted diets often choose a dedicated RO tap for drinking water instead of relying solely on the water softener system.

Digging deeper, your operating costs depend on hardness, household water use, and regeneration frequency; a medium household might buy 1–4 forty-pound salt bags per month ($5–$10 per bag) and schedule annual service ($50–$150). Resin replacement can cost $200–$800 and inefficient systems can waste hundreds of gallons monthly. Check local codes for brine disposal rules—some areas require permits or ban certain discharges—so factor potential permitting or haul-away costs into your total ownership estimate.

Making the Right Choice: Types of Water Softening Systems

Salt-based ion-exchange Exchanges calcium/magnesium for sodium; typical home units 24,000–48,000‑grain capacity; removes >99% of hardness; requires periodic brine recharge.
Salt-free (TAC/crystallization) Conditions scale by converting hardness ions to inert crystals; no salt or wastewater; best for prevention rather than complete removal.
Dual-tank (continuous softening) Two resin tanks for uninterrupted soft water during regeneration; ideal for 24/7 demand or large homes; often metered to save salt.
Magnetic/electronic descalers Alters scale formation using magnetic fields or pulses; low maintenance and low cost but inconsistent results on high hardness (>10 gpg).
Portable/compact systems Small-capacity softeners (8,000–16,000 grains) for apartments, RVs, or point-of-entry installations with limited space.
  • Match system capacity (grains) to your measured hardness in gpg and household daily water use in gallons.
  • Consider installation space, wastewater limits, and salt handling when evaluating options.
  • Knowing a 32,000‑grain water softener typically serves a family of four with 10 gpg hardness for about 60–90 days between regenerations.

Comparing Salt-Based and Salt-Free Solutions

Salt-based water softener systems use ion exchange to remove hardness ions, delivering near-complete soft water for appliances and skin; salt-free systems like TAC prevent scale by crystallizing hardness minerals without removing them, preserving sodium levels and eliminating brine discharge. If your hardness exceeds 8–10 gpg or you need spot-free dishes, a salt-based system is usually more effective.

Salt-Based vs Salt-Free

Mechanism Ion exchange (removes Ca/Mg) vs template-assisted crystallization (transforms minerals)
Hardness reduction Typically >99% removal vs scale control without significant ppm reduction
Maintenance Salt refill and periodic resin care vs minimal maintenance, no salt
Best for Homes needing true soft water for laundry, water-using appliances vs systems prioritizing low waste and no sodium

Factors to Consider When Selecting a System

Assess your water hardness in grains per gallon (gpg), household peak flow in gallons per minute (gpm), and daily usage to size a water softener system correctly; include local wastewater restrictions and whether you need NSF/ANSI certifications. For example, a household of four using 300 gallons/day with 10 gpg hardness needs roughly a 30,000–40,000‑grain unit to regenerate monthly.

  • Test water: obtain lab or kit results showing gpg, iron, pH, and TDS.
  • Calculate daily softening demand: people × 75–100 gallons × gpg = grains/day.
  • Knowing peak flow needs (cook, shower, laundry simultaneously) determine a softener with ≥ required gpm to avoid pressure loss.

Evaluate long-term operating costs—salt, water for regeneration, replacement resin, and energy—and compare against upfront price; factor in warranty length (5–10 years typical), local service availability, and whether you prefer automatic metered regeneration versus timed cycles. Installers recommend allowing 2–3 inches clearance around tanks and selecting a resin rated for your water’s iron content (e.g., Catalytic resin handles up to 5 ppm iron better).

  • Estimate annual salt use: a 32,000‑grain unit regenerating monthly uses ~250–350 lb salt/year for a family of four.
  • Check certifications (NSF/ANSI 44 for cation exchange) and ask for performance guarantees from the installer.
  • Knowing maintenance intervals, space, and wastewater limits helps you choose the most cost-effective, compliant water softener system.

Summing up

From above, you can see how a water softener system protects your plumbing and appliances by swapping hardness minerals for sodium via an ion-exchange water softener; the salt-based water softener system periodically regenerates to restore capacity, reducing scale and improving soap performance. When you size, maintain, and monitor regeneration, your water softener system delivers consistent, measurable benefits backed by industry principles and decades of practical performance.

Our team at RJP Plumbing & Heating is known for quality workmanship, competitive pricing, and reliable emergency service. Whether it’s a simple repair, full system installation,or an emergency plumbing issue, RJP Plumbing & Heating is committed to getting the job done right the first time. Check out our 5 star Google reviews and contact us today. 

 

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source https://rjpplumbingandheating.com/how-does-a-water-softener-system-work/

Why Water Pipes Burst in Bergen County, NJ Homes (and How to Prevent Them)

Most winters in Bergen County expose your plumbing to stress, so you should know why do pipes burst and the common causes of burst pipe...